Hemp is attractive and can hold its own in the fashion industry!

The well-known trademark of the Lewis company speaks for itself: two horses are trying to pull apart a pair of pants – a test of endurance that only the indestructible hemp can withstand! Originally, it served as work pants for gold miners in North America, defying constant moisture, as hemp fabric can absorb many times its own weight in water without damage and is comfortable, dirt-repellent, and long-lasting.

Hemp becomes fashionable - from "hemp sack" to New York Fashion Week

Thus, hemp was long one of the most commonly used textile fibers alongside flax and was widespread worldwide. How could it fall into oblivion? At the beginning of the 20th century, cotton developed into massive competition, synthetic fibers began their triumph, and hemp was increasingly labeled as a drug plant due to strict cultivation bans in many countries. However, its rediscovery and growing popularity are fortunately reversing this trend in the clothing sector as well, and for all those who want to dress sustainably and resource-conservingly, hemp textiles are no longer a secret tip!
The resilience and tear resistance are due to the quite long, firm, and dense fibers of the hemp plant, meaning there is no quick fraying or wear, for which the shorter and looser cotton is more susceptible. Moreover, the denser fabric offers significantly better protection against UV radiation.
Hemp dresses are real all-rounders, suitable for the whole year and any weather. When sweating in summer, the absorbent fabric easily takes up about a third of the moisture, stays dry, does not cling to the skin, and retains its shape. Thanks to the antimicrobial properties of hemp fibers, unpleasant odors cannot develop from sweat – what smells less needs to be washed less often, much to the delight of the environment! A sweaty hemp garment aired out overnight can be worn fresh again the next morning. In the cold season, the sturdy fabric insulates well against the cold, wonderfully warms thanks to air pockets in the fibers, and remains breathable.

Rough sackcloth with a scratchy feel? - no one really wants that!

But that’s exactly what hemp textiles were known for in the past. The culprit is the hard and woody biopolymer lignin, which makes up to ten percent of the dry weight of hemp fibers and could not be removed in the past without affecting the strength of the fibers. For a long time, smoother and softer plant fibers were preferred – a motivation to continuously improve and perfect the cultivation, harvesting, and subsequent extraction and processing of hemp fibers! With success, as the fibers of today’s approved industrial hemp varieties feel significantly more pleasant and softer and are also very skin-friendly, as the use of chemicals can largely be avoided during cultivation. Furthermore, interestingly, the microelectrical tension of the fibers corresponds to that of our skin, making hemp clothing antistatic! Allergy sufferers and people with sensitive skin or even rheumatism and joint pain often tolerate hemp textiles significantly better than clothing made from other raw materials.
The decisive turning point in terms of wearing comfort is due to a technique developed in the mid-1980s that allows lignin to be removed. Initially, the protein-splitting enzyme protease is applied to the hemp fiber to reduce the nitrogen in the stems. Then, the charred smoke fungus (Bjerkandera adusta), a special type of mushroom, is used, which settles on the fibers and "consumes" the lignin.

Hemp fabrics for all occasions - should it be a casual piece or the wedding dress?

A remarkable variety of high-quality, durable, and also very fine fabrics can be made from hemp fibers, either alone or in combination with other natural fibers like flax and silk.
For example, if linen is made from pure hemp, a lightweight, durable, and breathable fabric is created, ideal for hot and humid conditions. Due to their enormous ability to absorb moisture, the use of hemp fibers for terry towels is obvious. Hemp fibers are also well-suited for various types of twill weave, alongside the plain and satin weave, which are the three basic weave types for woven fabrics. The most well-known is the blue and white denim fabric, but the fibers of the hemp plant can also be well used for flannel and knitted textiles like jersey and velour. In combination with silk, hemp fibers can be found as stiff shiny taffeta in elegant ball and wedding dresses! If used for the production of charmeuse, a shiny satin, soft flowing, lightweight evening dresses are created. Even complex jacquard fabrics with woven patterns can be made from hemp and silk.
But it can also be very practical! Mixed with cotton, which softens the fabric, well-absorbing and durable hemp cloth diapers are created. Thanks to the antibacterial and antimicrobial properties of hemp, diaper rash and related skin problems usually have no chance.

Setting a sign for sustainability with hemp clothing

Hemp actually grows everywhere in the world, and regional cultivation can effectively avoid CO2 emissions from long transport routes. The very productive hemp plant can be fully utilized and processed, grows quickly, and requires relatively little additional water, as it is usually planted in rainfall-rich areas. It is excellently suited for ecological cultivation, as its dense foliage does not allow weeds to grow, and herbicides, pesticides, and fungicides can largely be dispensed with, as hemp is not susceptible to pests and fungi.

Cotton still wins the race!

Hemp fabrics are warmer, more absorbent, and tear-resistant than cotton fabrics, but the extraction of hemp fibers is more labor-intensive than the simple picking of cotton fibers. In hemp, the fibers are located in the fiber bundles of the plant, meaning that to access them, the rest of the plant must first be removed. When hemp is harvested for fiber extraction, the hemp seeds are not yet ripe and are missing as an additional harvest product for farmers. Therefore, cultivation in Europe currently cannot meet the demand for hemp fibers in the European market nor compete with the world market price, necessitating additional imports, for example, from China.

From hemp fiber to hemp yarn

Fiber hemp is fundamentally obtained from cannabinoid-poor cannabis varieties. Planted closely together, they hardly branch, resulting in tall, straight hollow stems with a high fiber content of 35%.
Both male and female plants can be used for pure fiber extraction. A Hungarian study confirmed in 1996 what traditional hemp farmers in the United Kingdom have always believed: that male hemp plants produce much finer and silkier fibers than the female ones, which are somewhat sturdier.
After cutting the plants, the "retting" of the hemp fibers follows. Laid out on the ground for several weeks, the pectin in the plant cell walls, a gel-like polysaccharide that binds the fibers, is broken down in light and air, exposing the long bast fibers in the inner bark. This process can be accelerated with chemical and enzymatic means, or if it takes place in water tanks or under frost and snow, which is supposed to make the fibers whiter and finer.
After retting, the hemp fiber is stripped, meaning the central woody core is removed from the stalk. Thanks to modern machines, both processes can now be combined and shortened, so that immediately after mowing the hemp plants, bundleable fibers are available. These are either spun directly into yarn or treated further to make them softer and more elastic.
When spinning the hemp fiber into hemp yarn, the fibers are twisted together into long, continuous threads similarly to other natural fibers and are often sealed with wax or similar substances to make the yarn waterproof and more durable. To obtain different thread mixtures, other plant fibers are added to the hemp, which together determine the properties of the yarn.

Hemp has arrived on the runway!

Today, not only in stores of large international fashion chains can one find a considerable selection of hemp-based clothing, but also increasingly more designer pieces made from hemp fabrics. Thanks to innovative hemp textile companies like EnviroTextiles or Patagonia, which produce high-quality hemp fabrics, well-known designers like Ralph Lauren, Donatella Versace, or Calvin Klein present their creations made from hemp at international events such as the New York Fashion Week.

Image source: ©Shutterstock

References: www.envirotextile.com