The INCI list: Understanding ingredients in cosmetics

But what does the abbreviation INCI mean? It also comes from English and stands for "International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients," in German Internationale Nomenklatur für kosmetische Inhaltsstoffe. This INCI list includes all substances that can be found in cosmetic products. To ensure that it is understandable worldwide what is contained in shower gels, toothpaste, or lipsticks, an internationally consistent designation for cosmetic ingredients has been agreed upon. This is done in English, with plant-derived substances being referred to by their Latin botanical names. This ensures that every ingredient contained in a cosmetic product is listed correctly and uniformly. For allergy sufferers and vegans, this is particularly important, as it allows them to check a product for potentially concerning components. In the European Union, the labeling of cosmetic ingredients according to the INCI system has been legally required since 1997 and is part of the EU Cosmetics Regulation (Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 on cosmetic products).

What falls under cosmetics? Which products fall under cosmetics?

Only those substances that are intended to come into contact externally with the human body, that is, with the skin, hair, nails, teeth, and mucous membranes of the mouth, are considered cosmetics. They must serve to cleanse, protect, maintain, or perfume the body, to change appearance, and to influence body odor. Therefore, cosmetics essentially include everything from soap to shampoo, creams, mouthwashes, to makeup and deodorant or perfume.

The order of ingredients on the INCI list

The components of a cosmetic product are listed as "Ingredients" with their INCI designations on the product or its packaging in accordance with Article 19 of the EU Cosmetics Regulation. This is not arbitrary, but is done in descending order according to their weight proportion in the total product at the time of its manufacture. This means that the main ingredient is listed first, and the more of a substance that is present, the higher it appears on the list. Ingredients with less than one percent weight proportion may then be listed in any order following those with a higher concentration. There are also special regulations for the labeling of fragrance and aroma substances, colorants, and nanomaterials.

The most important ingredients according to INCI in HANAFSAN CBD Organic Natural Cosmetics

CANNABIS SATIVA SEED OIL
This is hemp seed oil, which is obtained by pressing the seeds of the hemp plant (Cannabis sativa L.), which contains about 35 percent fatty oil. As an ingredient in cosmetics, it is skin-caring, meaning it keeps the skin in good condition, makes it smooth and supple, and is therefore increasingly used in skin care products. Hemp seed oil is characterized by a high content of polyunsaturated fatty acids and is often used for dry skin, brittle hair, or skin eczema. The rich fatty acids protect the skin from infections and moisture loss and strengthen its elasticity. The gamma-linolenic acid contained in hemp seed oil particularly supports the skin's protective function.

CANNABIDIOL
The cannabinoid cannabidiol (CBD) is usually obtained as an extract from the leaves and/or flowers of the hemp plant. In cosmetics, CBD is skin-caring and protective, keeping the skin in good condition and protecting it from external influences. CBD also has antioxidant properties, meaning it inhibits oxidation processes caused by oxygen, and reduces sebum production as it inhibits sebum production.

BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTER
Shea butter is the plant fat obtained from the fruits (karité nuts) of the shea tree, also known as the shea nut tree. As a cosmetic ingredient, it is skin-caring and viscosity-regulating, meaning it increases or decreases the viscosity of cosmetic products. Shea butter is used in many cosmetic products as a nourishing component due to its valuable ingredients such as unsaturated fatty acids, the antioxidant Vitamin E, and Allantoin. It particularly provides moisture to very dry skin, absorbs very well, and makes the skin soft, allowing other substances to be better absorbed. The abundant fatty acids also give softness and suppleness to dry and brittle hair. Shea butter is well-suited for lip care and can also be helpful for skin irritations due to its high-quality ingredients such as Allantoin, as it accelerates cell regeneration and contributes to cell formation and skin regeneration.

AQUA
Purified, germ-free water forms the basis for many cosmetic products and serves as a solvent. Creams, for example, acquire their smooth, soft consistency through water. This often makes them easier to apply than anhydrous products and prevents them from being perceived as overly greasy.

ALCOHOL
Alcohol, also referred to as ethanol, is an ingredient in many cosmetics. It serves as a preservative and, like water, as a neutral-smelling solvent for other substances. Alcohol is astringent, meaning it tightens the skin, thereby condensing the skin surface, and has antimicrobial properties, as it inhibits the growth of microorganisms such as bacteria and fungi. It improves the scent, can perfume the skin, and reduces foaming during the production and application of cosmetic products. Additionally, it regulates their viscosity just like shea butter. Alcohol refreshes and has a pleasant cooling effect, for example, in deodorants and aftershaves. In perfumes, it promotes the unfolding of the fragrance, as perfume oils dissolve very easily in alcohol, while it itself remains on the skin only briefly as a volatile substance.

XANTHAN GUM
Xanthan is used in cosmetics as a binding agent and improves the stability of the product. It helps to hold together powdery and powder-containing components and enables the formation of emulsions, such as finely dispersed mixtures of oil and water, as an emulsifier. Furthermore, xanthan has gelling properties, influences viscosity, and has skin-caring properties.

ALOE BARBADENSIS LEAF JUICE POWDER
The juice from the leaves of the aloe vera plant or the powder obtained through drying has very caring and particularly moisturizing properties. Therefore, they are frequently used in skin care. Aloe vera was likely originally native to Sudan and the Arabian Peninsula, but is now cultivated worldwide in dry-hot regions. Even in ancient times, its juice was highly valued for its wound-healing and regenerating effects. The high-quality ingredients such as enzymes and amino acids as well as antioxidants, minerals, and vitamins pamper the skin in various ways. They not only provide moisture and give it elasticity and firmness but also have a calming and decongestant effect and strengthen the skin's protective mechanisms.

Knowing what is inside

Anyone who wants to learn more about the ingredients of their cosmetic products and their effects can find interesting information at Haut.de. The complete list of INCI designations with their over 26,000 (!) substances is provided by the European Commission under the INCI list. In our article on organic cosmetics, we also discuss the quality criteria and guidelines associated with the labels "organic" and "natural cosmetics."

Sources:
BVL - Labeling of Cosmetics (bund.de)
Ingredients/INCI - haut.de
Art. 19 Cosmetics Regulation - Labeling (lexparency.de)
CosIng - Cosmetics - GROWTH - European Commission (europa.eu)

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